This altitude is no joke. And I thought that altitude sickness was for whimps- overly exaggerated.
Arequipa is already at 2300m, that's 7500 ft. And I noticed that when I was there, I was getting winded going up a flight of stairs. My initial thought was holy shit, am I that out of shape? Then I realized that even walking through town was just exhausting. Why was my heart racing so much? I was actually getting worried for my health.
But here in Puno, we're at 3800m, that's 12,500 ft above sea level. And it's a town set in the mountains, so there are plenty of hills to climb all day. Especially to my hostel which is set at the top of a very steep hill-- so steep the sidewalks are stairs. My lungs are literally sore from having to breathe so hard. I keep massaging my chest thinking that it's going to make my lungs feel better, and it doesn't. You know why? My lungs are inside my chest. And forget about the headaches. Massaging, cold compresses, pressure, nothing works. Thank god that this is all I'm experiencing bc some ppl become bed ridden or get the runs. I just need to take it easy, take frequent breaks, walk slow and breathe deep. But this air is thin up here!
Cuzco drops a generous 500m or 1,600 ft, so unless I produce a boat load of red blood cells in the next 2 days, ill still be feeling pretty exhausted there too. But I purposely made sure that I slowly worked my way over to Cuzco so that I would be acclimated by the time I get to Machu Picchu, which I'm sure I will be by the end of the week.
The only thing that's actually been helping is the mate de coca- or tea made from coca leaves. The same plant that produces cocaine. It's the closest thing i'll ever get to the actual drug. And not only is this tea delicious, but it does really help. It just kind-of numbs things; reduces the headache. Can we get this at home? Can i bring some back?
I read that should someone be subject to random drug tests, this would show up in their urine. Well good thing I'm unemployed. I'm gonna feel free to drink up!!
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