Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Fes - juj

Since I convinced the Filipino guy to join us in Volubilis and Moulay Idriss, I promised I would accompany him to the tanneries and the karaouine mosque before my cooking class the next day.






We headed out and 8am and after getting lost twice in the medina, we finally agreed to allow someone to escort us to a tannery "for a small tip". Fes is known for its leather and this leather is considered to be the best in the world. The way this leather is prepared is still the same as it ever was-- with urine and feces. The smell is awful and they give you mint leaves to hold up to your nose as you look through. I learned that the yellow leather is died with yellow saffron, thus making it the most expensive color. After we finished the tour, the guide who asked for a small tip asked for 50 dh. I was generous enough to give him 20.






After my cooking class, cute hotel guy Y took me to a public hamam for relaxation. He even waited for me to walk me back to the hotel when I was done. I was a little embarrassed because i walked out bright red, sans makeup and with a towel wrapped around my head. In egypt it would never be appropriate for me to walk outside like this, but the girls at the hamam said it's ok. He's quiet and hard to read, but I definitely notice that I get special treatment from him. He said he was looking for me at breakfast and missed me, but I missed it because we got lost in the medina. He's always helping me and looking out for me, like he worries about me going out alone and always offers to join me :-). He was happy that I was staying an extra day.

I spent my last days walking through the medina, finally picking up a few purchases and hanging out at cafe clock or on the roof terrace soaking up the gorgeous sun. The weather has been stunning.














I met a group of 5 American girls studying abroad in paris, on the riad terrace. As soon as I left them to get ready to meet x, I was told that my room had been booked and I had to leave-- it was 6pm. I was flustered and annoyed! I asked this morning and everything was fine... So I packed up my things and left in a rush because I was late.

Y, the cute hotel guy, found me in the street, and he too was upset that I was kicked out. He insisted on helping me with my bags and kindly led me to another beautiful riad that is actually more expensive, but he negotiated for me to spend my last night. He could tell that i was so upset and kept telling me to "please feel better because it was making him feel bad." I def got the impression that he likes me. This time he told me he was upset that I had plans to meet x. I do wish I had been able to spend more time with him. I have a soft spot for him.

When I woke up on my last morning, I headed back into the medina for a few last purchases (I went crazy trying to find some damn elephants)... What was great was that everyone I had met over the course of the past 5 days, was so friendly and would greet me and say good morning and chatted with me a bit. It's like I had developed my own little community there as the single Egyptian-American girl. I felt so sad to leave. I could have honestly spent another week in fes.

But the most important thing I had to do this morning was say goodbye to Y. I went back to the riad where I saw the owner and manager who were both super shady and awkward. When he came out, he was so happy to see me. He didn't think I would come to say goodbye, but how could I not, after all he had done for me? I joined him for a walk through town until it was time for me to check out and then he walked me back to my riad. Then, he told me he had a whole night planned for us the night before, which is why he was so upset that I went out with X instead. It was supposed to be a surprise. I felt so sad. As wonderful as it was to see X, it would have been really nice to create new memories instead of reliving old ones. I suddenly felt really emotional and was talking myself out of crying with every bribe I could think of. I was sad about seeing X, sad about leaving fes, and sad about not being able to spend more time with Y. The hotel owner (his boss) called him twice while we were together- such a jerk, he did NOT like that we were friendly with each other. I never had a good feeling about him.

In the end, I gave him a leather braided bracelet that I bought him to remember me by, and the biggest hug. As he walked away down the windy roads of the medina, he threw his hands up and shouted, "I'm really gonna miss you!!" I will miss him.

...And then I cried in my room for like 15 minutes before heading to the train station. At least I waited until I was alone!

Why do I always have to travel around the world for romance?

1 comment:

  1. i don't get it either! are you going back? he seems sweet, i can't wait to find out!

    in other news, elephants are AWESOME.

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